CAL / 2017 - Hygge

Information

Tips & Tricks

Week 1

Week 2
Week 3
Week 4
Week 5
Week 6
Week 7
Week 8
Week 10
Week 11
Week 12
Week 13
Week 14
Bonus Patterns
knzzblvK54pP9Vlg9rsmnY2vRHRbtBIGDx1CURTW8jlM9PU27dNNoA-011-Scheepjes-20161213-3368

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit Kirsten's website for more information!
Information
‘Hygge’ (pronounced ‘Hoo-ga’) is a Danish word, which means cosiness. Imagine being in a warm and welcoming environment whilst enjoying the good things in life. Snuggling on the sofa crafting, enjoying a good meal, wearing your favourite sweater, drinking a warm cup of tea, getting together with friends to talk and create, its all Hygge.
Designer Kirsten Ballering from blog Haak Maar Raak has been working with Scheepjes to plan this beautiful Scandinavian themed crochet-along. From the very first Scheepjes CAL, people have been asking when the famous Stone Washed yarns will appear in a CAL and now we can tell you that will be this year! We teamed it up with our colourful Catona yarns for a beautiful contrast. Kirsten was inspired by traditional Scandinavian designs to decorate this wrap with a combination of both crochet and cross-stitch.

The CAL will start on Wednesday February 15th. Over 14 weeks you will create a beautiful winter warmer shawl to become the perfect Hygge companion. Wrap it around your shoulders for a cosy night in whilst reading a book or watching your favourite TV shows. Every Wednesday a new part of the pattern will be released. The patterns are available in English UK terminology as well as US terminology, Dutch and Swedish. As always, Esther from It’s All in a Nutshell blog will be one of your Hygge friends joining you on this project, helping you learn new skills along the way.
Join our Scheepjes CAL through the Dutch and International Facebook group  or via Scheepjes.com.
Kits are available in 5 colour themes: Rainbow, Pastel, Juwel, Simy's Choice (The Danish Mermaid) & Girls Night In.
Would you like to buy a CAL2017 kit? Find your Scheepjes dealer here.
R.R.P. € 48,20 / £ 40,79 / USD 49,99.

Information
wV8WTDUmUKyITPD0cwkvGBp_JeJoLzCq4do11a_qhqw-Hygge_1500x1390_142986d9-ffc6-416c-be23-fc077d75f1a9

Information

1nge1eKsW3KNVYH5JMMytnPwWV3t5dzrnZWaAExD_FY-Inhoud-Kits

Information

TI95uBhBMgZjTJlcKF6ISb8rGjdGtVgekP5ZTjMPUYM-Girls_night_in
j9Z33a1JE_DWjs46VpyC_dDbPNkqxd6EP1ZNNgfZj6s-Proeflapje

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit Kirsten's website for more information!

Tips & Tricks

It won’t be long before the Hygge CAL will start! In order to prepare yourself for the CAL, we have created a Tips & Tricks document for you with info about the CAL and the used techniques. In this document you will find instructions for the Gauge square, information and tips regarding the cross stitch embroidery in this CAL and instructions on how to block your shawl afterwards.
Gauge square
To make sure your shawl has the same measurements as listed in the pattern it’s recommended to crochet a gauge square. A gauge square is a test to make sure your tension matches the pattern’s tension. The 10 x 10cm (4in) gauge for this pattern is 19 dc and 19 rows when worked with a 4.5mm (US size 7) crochet hook.
Pattern for gauge square (UK)
ch chain
dc double crochet
With Stone washed, ch20.
Row 1 Starting in 2nd ch from hook dc to end, ch1, turn. (19 dc)
Rows 2-18 19dc, ch1, turn.
Row 19 19dc, place stitch marker in last stitch.
Now gently flatten your gauge square with your hands and measure it. If your square measures 10 cm in width and height, your gauge is comparable to the pattern’s gauge and your final measurements of the shawl will most likely be similar too.
If your square is smaller, re-do the gauge square with a larger crochet hook. If your square is larger, consider redoing it with a smaller hook. The hooksize that makes your gauge match the pattern’s gauge is the hooksize you will be using during the CAL.
If you can’t seem to match the pattern’s gauge, that’s OK too. It just means that your shawl’s measurements might be different. However, keep in mind that this also might mean you’ll need more yarn than is provided in the kit to finish the shawl. Keep an eye on the looks of the crochet fabric too. You don’t want the gauge square to have very visible holes, as that will show in your shawl too. Don’t get too worried over the gauge though, In the end, it’s important that you feel good about this CAL!
When your gauge square is done, Cut of the yarn and weave in loose ends.
Proeflapje - Pattern
g_Kl6o_P1_Kye__j6Ulu9ah_crz6RMqdQWk1iNioa9g-Gauge-square---pattern

Tips & Tricks

Cross stitch Embroidery
In this CAL you will learn how to cross stitch on crochet. Because practice makes perfect, we will practice this on the gauge square. There will be a video tutorial for embroidery too, which will be released in the first week we will do the embroidery on the shawl, so don’t be disheartened if the embroidery doesn’t work out like you imagined it right away.
Basics of cross stitch
Cross stitch consists of, as the name implies, crosses that together form one stitch. You will be embroidering over crocheted stitches in this CAL, which is very similar to embroidering on embroidery fabric.
In order to understand the embroidery process and read the accompanying diagrams, you need to first visualize the embroidery grid on the crochet fabric. To help you do so, take your gauge square and hold it up to the light. You will see the light shining through the 4 corners of each stitch (you might need to stretch the gauge square a bit to see this). These corners are the corners you’re going to make crosses in.
The easiest way to make a cross stitch is as follows:
Imagine the 4 corners are called A, B, C and D, starting in the left upper corner and going clockwise.
  • Step 1: Insert your threaded needle from the back to the front in B.
  • Step 2: Over the front of your work, insert your needle from the front to the back in D.
  • Step 3: Over the back of your work, insert your needle from the back to the front in A.
  • Step 4: Over the front of your work, insert your needle from the front to the back in C.
You repeat this for each stitch, keeping in mind that adjacent stitches share their corners (So the B and C corners of one stitch are the A and D corners of the stitch to the right) . When you insert your needle in a corner, try not to split threads from previous cross stitches.
If you prefer to work your A-C line before your B-D line, that’s a possibility too. It’s recommended to keep the order in which you make the ‘legs’ of your cross stitches the same throughout the CAL.

Basis Kruissteek
OQDHso9luZdFpS9qsDiux6OFDUPICr8xwk3DVM_YLL8-Cross-Stitch-basics

Tips & Tricks

Yarn lengths
You will have to switch colours sometimes in the patterns (more on that later). It might seem attractive to take 3m of colour so you won’t run out when you embroider. However, long lengths are difficult to pull through and will tangle up on itself. It’s better to have smaller pieces of 50-75cm (20-30in). This means more ends to weave in, but will benefit the look of your embroidery.

Starting, ending and changing colours
To get started with a colour or switch colours while embroidering, weave your thread through a couple of stitches at the back of your work adjacent to the stitch you want to embroider in. Weave back and forth to secure your yarn tail. Now you can start making cross stitches as explained earlier. When you finish a colour, simply weave your thread forth and back one time and cut off the remaining yarn.

Reading embroidery diagrams
The embroidery diagrams are a schematic representation of your cross stitch pattern. Each square (pixel) in your diagram represents a stitch in your crochet fabric. Coloured squares are stitches that will be embroidered, white squares will not have embroidery on the crochet piece. As you can see, the embroidery diagram for the gauge square is comprised of 19 pixels in width and in height, just as your gauge square is 19 dc in width and 19 rows in height. The letter in each coloured square represents the colour that the cross stitch is worked in. You can find the key to the letters in the colour table listed below.
Embroidery diagrams aren’t read like crochet diagrams in the sense that there isn’t a set order in which you embroider your stitches. In the end what counts is that all stitches are worked. In general it’s the easiest to start reading a diagram on one side, and work your way towards the other side. Important is to keep counting the stitches in the diagram and on your work. To help you with the counting, thicker lines have been made in the diagram every 5 stitches.
To practice, have a look at the diagram at the next page. As you can see, each row in the pattern only uses one colour. You can approach this pattern 2 ways: you can work in vertical rows working from right to left or left to right, meaning that you have to switch colours often. Or you work in horizontal rows from top to bottom or bottom to top, finishing a row before you move on to the next colour. Both methods will yield the same results in the end. However, the second method is the easiest to work for this particular pattern.
Some patterns in the CAL will be straightforward, like this pattern. Others will be more intricate and require you to switch colours more often. In the end it doesn’t matter in which order you cross stitch the stitches, as long as you count carefully.
To practice, embroidery the diagram on the next page on your gauge square. Don’t feel disheartened if it doesn’t look perfect on the first try. You will get lots of practice in this CAL!

Proeflapje - Borduur diagram
Aaqr3U0AKdpWIotCVSIgV8CO8JOTulCGDakTcaYMaYA-Proeflapje---Borduurdiagram
tjZsTpO0gKg4uUQQeu_PQpg_XmvtYWLLIvCVlahYJg6c1u6pbxmzYg-Colour-Tabel-definitief

Tips & Tricks

Blocking your shawl
Blocking is the process in which you wet your crochet piece, in order to give the stitches extra definition and to work out any minor flaws in the shape. When you block your work, the tension in the stitches is more evenly divided which means that your stitches simply look better after blocking.
In previous CALs we have blocked motifs each week. Because this CAL is worked in one piece, we will block once, at the end of week 13. Because Catona is 100% cotton and Stone washed is a cotton blend, we recommend wet blocking over any other blocking methods.
To wet block your piece, you need the following items:
  • Blocking boards or a surface that can hold pins (old yoga mats or mattresses)
  • Stainless steel pins
  • Towels
  • Optionally: Eucalan (a non-rinse fiber softener with Lanolin)
Start by filling your sink with cold or lukewarm water. Add the Eucalan to the sink if you use this. Place your shawl in the water, and let it soak for about 15 minutes. Next, spread out the towels on a flat surface. Take your shawl out of the sink, very carefully press out some water and place your shawl on top of the towels. Add another layer of towels on top, effectively making a towel-shawl sandwich. Roll up your towels with the shawl in between like a sushi roll. Gently press out the excess water, be careful not to stress the shawl. Remove the towels and place your damp shawl on the blocking board. Use the stainless steel pins to pin the shawl to the right dimensions and shape and allow it to dry naturally overnight. Remove the pins and enjoy your freshly blocked shawl.
You can practice this blocking method on your gauge square too!

Color table

Tips & Tricks - UK

Tips & Tricks - US

Tips & Tricks - Swedish

Tips & Tricks - Spanish

Tips & Tricks - German

Tips & Tricks - Norwegian

Tips & Tricks - Hebrew

Tips & Tricks - Icelandic

Tips & Tricks - Italian

Tips & Tricks - Finnish

Tips & Tricks - French

Tips & Tricks - Portuguese

1O3WdmCZ3Lb15YiT8dYoxppOd1NVSz3IQM8KZic_FCjwQmlA_TRXTQ-Hygge-CAL-week-1-NL-1

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit Kirsten's website for more information!
Week 1
Stitches (UK)
  • bst bobble stitch (* yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook; repeat from * another 4 times (6 loops on hook), yarn over, pull loop through all loops on hook).
  • ch chain
  • dc double crochet
  • RS right side
  • WS wrong side
Tips and tricks
  • Colour changing is done by working the last loop of the stitch that’s worked before the colour change in the new colour.
  • In between the bobble stitches, crochet over the Catona thread with the Stone washed in order to keep the amount of loose ends to a minimum.
  • In order to make the bobbles really pop, make sure to pull the next dc extra tight.
Yarns
See the colour table for used yarns.
Hooksize: 4.5mm (US size 7)
Gauge: 19 dc and 19 rows = 10 cm (4in).
Pattern
With SW, ch60.
Row 1 (WS) Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 59dc, ch1, turn. (59 dc)
Row 2 (RS) 59dc across, ch1, turn.
Row 3 Repeat row 2.
Row 4 5dc, change to A, bst, *change to SW, 3dc, change to A, bst; repeat from * another 11 times, change to SW, 5dc, ch1, turn. Cut strand of A.
Row 5 Repeat row 2.
Row 6 3dc, change to B, bst, *change to SW, 3dc, change to B, bst; repeat from * another 12 times, change to SW, 3dc, ch1, turn. Cut strand of B.
Row 7 Repeat row 2.
Row 8 Repeat row 4 with C.
Row 9 Repeat row 2.
Row 10 Repeat row 6 with D.
Row 11 Repeat row 2.
Row 12 Repeat row 4 with E.
Row 13 Repeat row 2.
Row 14 Repeat row 6 with F.
Row 15 Repeat row 2.
Row 16 Repeat row 4 with G.
Row 17 Repeat row 2.
Row 18 Repeat row 6 with H.
Row 19 Repeat row 2.
Row 20 Repeat row 4 with I.
Row 21 Repeat row 2.
Row 22 Repeat row 6 with J.
Row 23 Repeat row 2.
Don’t cut SW, place a stitchmarker in the last SW stitch. Weave in all coloured ends.

Week 1 - Colour Table

GyLHnBtSnagy1Q_dpiwHv_A7Fdxw6NLlqByGLy6daKk-Colour-Tabel-definitief

Week 1 - Crochet diagram

wP_XnK1kXxKViR5Xlb7nkFFGuRklK109vWSyHgfVvJQ-week_1_haakdiagram_UK

Week 1 - UK

Week 1 - US

Week 1 - Swedish

Week 1 - Spanish

Week 1 - German

Week 1 - Norwegian

Week 1 - Hebrew

Week 1 - Icelandic

Week 1 - Italian

Week 1 - French

Week 1 - Finnish

Week 1 - Portuguese

Week 1 - Right-handed

Week 1 -Left-handed

HAnWr14mJhbW23vuBWjJjkrOgzhCLhYUnPyZQME3ojyvSn83h_yDQ-Week_02

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit Kirsten's website for more information!
Week 2
Stitches
  • ch chain
  • dc double crochet
  • ss slip stitch
  • st stitch
Tips & tricks
  • If you find it hard to keep track of the rows (for example, which rows belong to the separator) take a contrast yarn and weave that horizontally through your rows on the top and bottom. When you finish, take your contrast yarn out.
  • This embroidery pattern is most easily created if you start at one side of the pattern and work your way through row by row.
  • The row numbers in purple indicate the row count when you count the rows continuously throughout the weeks.
Yarns
See the colour table for used yarns.
Hooksize: 4.5mm (US Size 7) (optionally 4.0mm (US size G/6)).
Gauge: 19 dc and 19 rows = 10cm (4in).
Pattern
Release stitchmarker from previous week. ch1, turn.
Rows 1-23 59dc across, ch1, turn.
Row 24 59dc across, Place stitchmarker in last stitch.
Separator
The separator is crocheted in rows 1-7 (rows 24-30). Take colour A and use a 4.0 mm crochet hook, if you tend to chain loosely. If it pulls too much or if your shawl becomes concave at the ends, switch to a larger hooksize for the separator.
Separator row 1 Keep your yarn at the wrong side of your shawl. Stick your hook top-down in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 5. Pull up a loop, stick your hook in between the 4th and 5th st from row 4, pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook (ss made). Pull up loop between the 5th and 6th st from row 3, make ss, pull up loop between the 6th and 7th st from row 2, make ss. Pull up loop between the 7th and 8th st from row 1, make ss. First diagonal line made.
Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 2, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 3, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 4, make ss. Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 5, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 6, make ss.
Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 3, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.
Separator row 2 Pull up a loop in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 2, pull up a loop in between the 4th and 5th st from row 3, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 5th and 6th st from row 4, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!), pull up a loop in between the 6th and 7th st from row 5, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 7th and 8th st from row 6, make ss. Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 5, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 4, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 3, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!). Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 2, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 1, make ss.
Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 5, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.
Embroidery
Work your embroidery on rows 8-24 (rows 31-47) in cross stitch according to the embroidery scheme, with row 8 being the bottom, and row 24 being the top of your embroidered motif. You read the scheme as follows:
Every square represents a crocheted stitch in your shawl. The white squares will not be embroidered. The coloured squares represent the cross stitches you’re going to make. in every square there’s a letter, corresponding to the colour you use for the embroidery.
For details regarding how you embroider read the Tips & Tricks document, or watch the video tutorial provided for this week.

Week 2 - Colour Table

9ro0M_p9X4vt6m67bHuIQZBcOD81U18SmSR8NRcLBNk-Colour-Tabel-definitief

Week 2 - Embroidery diagram

SQGjrHvCqPO93LjejY5rf7zEJlynu2P2f6NWfNnOqn0hWDLRcbWMxQ-Hygge-CAL-week-2-UK-4

Week 2 - Separator diagram

LFZRfaBkhUONFqiuBPqaAfiqfUz_d_Y33kaRjs_gRk0-Week_02_-_Separatordiagram

Week 2 - UK

Week 2 - US

Week 2 - Swedish

Week 2 - Spanish

Week 2 - German

Week 2 - Norwegian

Week 2 - Hebrew

Week 2 - Icelandic

Week 2 - Italian

Week 2 - French

Week 2 - Finnish

Week 2 - Portuguese

Week 2 - Right-handed

Week 2 - Left-handed

i5WeNL5kKtbOhRugESG8LVwDMHaweR6A5YwvmIbKirc0EXw9WzvH2g-Week03

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit Kirsten's website   for more information!
Week 3
Stitches
  • ch chain
  • dc double crochet
  • ss slip stitch
  • st stitch
Tips & tricks
  • If you find it hard to keep track of the rows (for example, which rows belong to the separator) take a contrast yarn and weave that horizontally through your rows on the top and bottom. When you finish, take your contrast yarn out.
  • This embroidery pattern is most easily created if you finish the pattern heart by heart, working your way to the other side as you go.
  • The row numbers in purple indicate the row count when you count the rows continuously throughout the weeks.
Yarns
See the colour table for used yarns.
Hooksize: 4.5mm (US Size 7) (optionally 4.0mm (US size G/6)).
Gauge: 19 dc and 19 rows = 10cm (4in).
Pattern
Release stitchmarker from previous week. ch1, turn.|
Rows 1-23 59dc across, ch1, turn.
Row 24 59dc across, Place stitchmarker in last stitch.
Separator
The separator is crocheted in rows 1-7 (rows 48-54). Take colour A and use a 4.0 mm crochet hook, if you tend to chain loosely. If it pulls too much or if your shawl becomes concave at the ends, switch to a larger hooksize for the separator.
Separator row 1 Keep your yarn at the wrong side of your shawl. Stick your hook top-down in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 5. Pull up a loop, stick your hook in between the 4th and 5th st from row 4, pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook (ss made). Pull up loop between the 5th and 6th st from row 3, make ss, pull up loop between the 6th and 7th st from row 2, make ss. Pull up loop between the 7th and 8th st from row 1, make ss. First diagonal line made.
Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 2, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 3, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 4, make ss. Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 5, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 6, make ss.
Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 3, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.
Separator row 2 Pull up a loop in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 2, pull up a loop in between the 4th and 5th st from row 3, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 5th and 6th st from row 4, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!), pull up a loop in between the 6th and 7th st from row 5, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 7th and 8th st from row 6, make ss.
Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 5, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 4, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 3, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!). Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 2, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 1, make ss.
Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 5, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.

Embroidery
Work your embroidery on rows 8-24 (rows 55-71) in cross stitch according to the embroidery scheme, with row 8 being the bottom, and row 24 being the top of your embroidered motif. You read the scheme as follows:
Every square represents a crocheted stitch in your shawl. The white squares will not be embroidered. The coloured squares represent the cross stitches you’re going to make. in every square there’s a letter, corresponding to the colour you use for the embroidery.
For details regarding how you embroider read the Tips & Tricks document, or watch the video tutorial provided for week 2.

Week 3 - Colour Table

JTlK2tlwbFzf_wTwfww32WhOgSPS10IBKjuwD6o4S_4-Colour-Tabel-definitief

Week 3 - Embroidery diagram

bT0T_Z986ErC2tlPAhKbQTFGUE62PajRf7E5S2PqEM-Week_03_-_Borduurdiagram

Week 3 - Separator diagram

aR8aBqvRsZkA_WOLyQFir7zC_spQWTDt8Qh8Qq2na_I-Week_03_-_Separatordiagram

Week 3 - UK

Week 3 - US

Week 3 - Swedish

Week 3 - Spanish

Week 3 - German

Week 3 - Norwegian

Week 3 - Hebrew

Week 3 - Icelandic

Week 3 - Italian

Week 3 - French

Week 3 - Finnish

Week 3 - Portuguese

4wyUXq6fOSEXtmePxoh4_yQbDpkJ_47z18NkL1oyHR2b9vi3jESdQw-Week_04

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit Kirsten's website for more information!

Week 4
  • Stitches
  • ch chain
  • dc double crochet
  • ss slip stitch
  • st stitch

Tips & tricks
  • If you find it hard to keep track of the rows (for example, which rows belong to the separator) take a contrast yarn and weave that horizontally through your rows on the top and bottom. When you finish, take your contrast yarn out.
  • This embroidery pattern is most easily created if you contour the motifs first, and then embroider the other colours.
  • The row numbers in purple indicate the row count when you count the rows continuously throughout the weeks.
Yarns
See the colour table for used yarns.
Hooksize: 4.5mm (US Size 7) (optionally 4.0mm (US size G/6)).
Gauge: 19 dc and 19 rows = 10cm (4in).

Pattern
Release stitchmarker from previous week. ch1, turn.
Rows 1-23 59dc across, ch1, turn.
Row 24 59dc across, Place stitchmarker in last stitch.

Separator
The separator is crocheted in rows 1-7 (rows 72-78). Take colour A and use a 4.0 mm crochet hook, if you tend to chain loosely. If it pulls too much or if your shawl becomes concave at the ends, switch to a larger hooksize for the separator.
Separator row 1 Keep your yarn at the wrong side of your shawl. Stick your hook top-down in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 5. Pull up a loop, stick your hook in between the 4th and 5th st from row 4, pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook (ss made). Pull up loop between the 5th and 6th st from row 3, make ss, pull up loop between the 6th and 7th st from row 2, make ss. Pull up loop between the 7th and 8th st from row 1, make ss. First diagonal line made.
Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 2, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 3, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 4, make ss. Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 5, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 6, make ss.
Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 3, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.
Separator row 2 Pull up a loop in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 2, pull up a loop in between the 4th and 5th st from row 3, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 5th and 6th st from row 4, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!), pull up a loop in between the 6th and 7th st from row 5, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 7th and 8th st from row 6, make ss. Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 5, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 4, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 3, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!). Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 2, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 1, make ss.
Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 5, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.

Embroidery
Work your embroidery on rows 8-24 (rows 79-95) in cross stitch according to the embroidery scheme, with row 8 being the bottom, and row 24 being the top of your embroidered motif. You read the scheme as follows: Every square represents a crocheted stitch in your shawl. The white squares will not be embroidered. The coloured squares represent the cross stitches you’re going to make. in every square there’s a letter, corresponding to the colour you use for the embroidery.
For details regarding how you embroider read the Tips & Tricks document, or watch the video tutorial Esther made for week 2 (see below).

Week 4 - Colour Table

6Xn9WjUjvzzcNmY8e84nnoMvVuI0IMhw4eUTNG3CEvaIQ0zuuAVBSg-Colour-Tabel-definitief

Week 4 - Embroidery diagram

iuqOKzqZfMcGTTJ85VhamKb9HvPFmJufqbahtlM8s4I-Week_04_-_Borduurdiagram_e7075cea-1790-4bf8-b6b8-be477a653e89

Week 4 - Separator diagram

aR8aBqvRsZkA_WOLyQFir7zC_spQWTDt8Qh8Qq2na_I-Week_03_-_Separatordiagram

Week 4 - UK

Week 4 - US

Week 4 - Swedish

Week 4 - Spanish

Week 4 - German

Week 4 - Norwegian

Week 4 - Hebrew

Week 4 - Icelandic

Week 4 - Italian

Week 4 - French

Week 4 - Finnish

Week 4 - Portuguese

Week 4 - Right-handed

Week 2 - Right-handed

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit the Kirsten's website for more information!

Week 5

Stitches

  • ch chain
  • dc double crochet
  • ss slip stitch
  • st stitch

Tips & tricks

  • If you find it hard to keep track of the rows (for example, which rows belong to the separator) take a contrast yarn and weave that horizontally through your rows on the top and bottom. When you finish, take your contrast yarn out.
  • This week we’re not going to embroider anything. Instead we’re preparing the big backpiece. So turn on your favourite show, because this is perfect TV-crochet!
  • The row numbers in purple indicate the row count when you count the rows continuously throughout the weeks.

Yarns

See the colour table for used yarns.

Hooksize: 4.5mm (US Size 7) (optionally 4.0mm (US size G/6)).
Gauge: 19 dc and 19 rows = 10cm (4in).

Pattern

Release stitchmarker from previous week. ch1, turn.
Rows 1-56 59dc across, ch1, turn.
Row 57 59dc across, Place stitchmarker in last stitch.

Separator

The separator is crocheted in rows 1-7 (rows 96-102). Take colour A and use a 4.0 mm crochet hook, if you tend to chain loosely. If it pulls too much or if your shawl becomes concave at the ends, switch to a larger hooksize for the separator.

Separator row 1 Keep your yarn at the wrong side of your shawl. Stick your hook top-down in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 5. Pull up a loop, stick your hook in between the 4th and 5th st from row 4, pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook (ss made). Pull up loop between the 5th and 6th st from row 3, make ss, pull up loop between the 6th and 7th st from row 2, make ss. Pull up loop between the 7th and 8th st from row 1, make ss. First diagonal line made.

Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 2, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 3, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 4, make ss. Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 5, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 6, make ss.

Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 3, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.

Separator row 2 Pull up a loop in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 2, pull up a loop in between the 4th and 5th st from row 3, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 5th and 6th st from row 4, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!), pull up a loop in between the 6th and 7th st from row 5, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 7th and 8th st from row 6, make ss.

Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 5, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 4, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 3, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!). Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 2, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 1, make ss.

Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 5, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.

Optional but recommended: Take a contrasting piece of yarn, and weave it between rows 7/8 (rows 102/103).

To clarify: This week you have crocheted 57 rows for the backpiece. Rows 1-7 (96-102) are used to crochet the separator on. Rows 8-57 (103-152) are used to later embroider the first half of the backpiece on.

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit the Kirsten's website for more information!

Week 6

Stitches

  • ch chain
  • dc double crochet
  • ss slip stitch
  • st stitch

Tips & tricks

  • If you find it hard to keep track of the rows (for example, which rows belong to the separator) take a contrast yarn and weave that horizontally through your rows on the top and bottom. When you finish, take your contrast yarn out.
  • We’re finishing the crochet for the backpiece this week. Next week we’ll start the large embroidery for this piece.
  • The row numbers in purple indicate the row count when you count the rows continuously throughout the weeks.

Yarns

See the colour table for used yarns.

Hooksize: 4.5mm (US Size 7) (optionally 4.0mm (US size G/6)).
Gauge: 19 dc and 19 rows = 10cm (4in).

Pattern

Release stitchmarker from previous week. ch1, turn.
Rows 1-56 59dc across, ch1, turn.
Row 57 59dc across, Place stitchmarker in last stitch.

Separator

Please note: It’s important to count your rows carefully, as you will embroider the big backpiece in between the separator of last week, and this week. If you’re not confident that you’ve counted your rows right, you can also choose to create this separator in week 8, after you finish embroidering the backpiece.

The separator is crocheted in rows 51-57 (rows 203-209). Take colour A and use a 4.0 mm crochet hook, if you tend to chain loosely. If it pulls too much or if your shawl becomes concave at the ends, switch to a larger hooksize for the separator.

Separator row 1 Keep your yarn at the wrong side of your shawl. Stick your hook top-down in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 55. Pull up a loop, stick your hook in between the 4th and 5th st from row 54, pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook (ss made). Pull up loop between the 5th and 6th st from row 53, make ss, pull up loop between the 6th and 7th st from row 52, make ss. Pull up loop between the 7th and 8th st from row 51, make ss. First diagonal line made.

Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 52, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 53, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 54, make ss. Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 55, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 56, make ss.

Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 53, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.

Separator row 2 Pull up a loop in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 52, pull up a loop in between the 4th and 5th st from row 53, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 5th and 6th st from row 54, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!), pull up a loop in between the 6th and 7th st from row 55, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 7th and 8th st from row 56, make ss.

Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 55, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 54, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 53, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!). Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 52, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 51, make ss.

Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 55, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.

Optional but recommended: Take a contrast thread, and weave it between rows 57 from last week en row 1 from this week (rows 152/153, the center of the backpiece), and another contrast thread between row 50/51 (rows 202/203) of this week (the end of the backpiece).

To clarify: This week you have crocheted 57 rows for the backpiece. Row 1-50 (rows 153-202) will be used for the second half of the backpiece. Row 51-57 (rows 203-209) will be used to crochet the separator on.

Week 6 - Colour Table

Week 6 - Separator diagram

Download here week 6 of the CAL 2017 - UK.pdf

Download here week 6 of the CAL 2017 - US.pdf

Download here week 6 of the CAL 2017 - Swedish.pdf

Download here week 6 of the CAL 2017 - Spanish.pdf

Download here week 6 of the CAL 2017 - German.pdf

Download here week 6 of the CAL 2017 - Norwegian.pdf

Download here week 6 of the CAL 2017 - Hebrew.pdf

Download here week 6 of the CAL 2017 - Icelandic.pdf

Download here week 6 of the CAL 2017 - Italian.pdf

Download here week 6 of the CAL 2017 - French.pdf

Download here week 6 of the CAL 2017 - Finnish.pdf

Download here week 6 of the CAL 2017 - Portuguese.pdf

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit the Kirsten's website for more information!

Week 7

Yarns

See the colour table for used yarns.

Tips & tricks

  • If you find it hard to keep track of the rows (for example, which rows belong to the separator) take a contrast yarn and weave that horizontally through your rows on the top and bottom. When you finish, take your contrast yarn out.
  • This week we’re doing embroidery only, so you don’t have to crochet a separator as you’ve already done so in week 5.
  • The key to finishing this week is to keep counting. Really, it’s better to be safe than sorry!

Pattern

Work your embroidery on rows 8-57 (rows 103-152) in cross stitch according to the embroidery scheme, with row 8 being the bottom, and row 57 being the top of your embroidered motif (the center of the backpiece). You read the scheme as follows:

Every square represents a crocheted stitch in your shawl. The white squares will not be embroidered. The coloured squares represent the cross stitches you’re going to make. In every square there’s a letter, corresponding to the colour you use for the embroidery.

For details regarding how you embroider read the Tips & Tricks document, or watch the video tutorial Esther made for week 2. I can give you a tip on how to tackle this large embroidery. What worked for me is to start with the large half flower and its stem. Next, I’ve embroidered the two stems on the side. The key to finishing this week is to keep counting. Every time you finish a section, count if your stitches are in the right place.

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit the Kirsten's website for more information!

Week 8

Garens

See the colour table for used yarns.

Tips & Tricks

  • If you find it hard to keep track of the rows (for example, which rows belong to the separator) take a contrast yarn and weave that horizontally through your rows on the top and bottom. When you finish, take your contrast yarn out.
  • This week we’re finishing the embroidery on the backpiece. You don’t have to crochet a separator, you already did so in week 6.
  • The key to finishing this week is to keep counting. Really, it’s better to be safe than sorry!

Pattern

Work your embroidery on rows 1-50 (rows 153-202) in cross stitch according to the embroidery scheme, with row 1 being the bottom (the center of the backpiece), and row 50 being the top of your embroidered motif. You read the scheme as follows:

Every square represents a crocheted stitch in your shawl. The white squares will not be embroidered. The coloured squares represent the cross stitches you’re going to make. In every square there’s a letter, corresponding to the colour you use for the embroidery.

For details regarding how you embroider read the Tips & Tricks document, or watch the video tutorial Esther made for week 2. I can give you a tip on how to tackle this large embroidery. What worked for me is to start with the large half flower and its stem. Next, I’ve embroidered the two stems on the side and later added the details such as the birds and butterflies. The key to finishing this week is to keep counting. Every time you finish a section, count if your stitches are in the right place.

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit the Kirsten's website for more information!

Week 9

Stitches

  • ch chain
  • dc double crochet
  • ss slip stitch
  • st stitch

Tips & tricks

  • If you find it hard to keep track of the rows (for example, which rows belong to the separator) take a contrast yarn and weave that horizontally through your rows on the top and bottom. When you finish, take your contrast yarn out.
  • This embroidery pattern is most easily created if you start with contouring the motifs
  • The row numbers in purple indicate the row count when you count the rows continuously throughout the weeks.

Yarns

See the colour table for used yarns.

Hooksize: 4.5mm (US Size 7) (optionally 4.0mm (US size G/6)).
Gauge: 19 dc and 19 rows = 10cm (4in).

Pattern

Release stitchmarker from previous week. ch1, turn.
Rows 1-23 59dc across, ch1, turn.
Row 24 59dc across, Place stitchmarker in last stitch.

Embroidery

Work your embroidery on rows 1-17 (rows 210-226) in cross stitch according to the embroidery scheme, with row 1 being the bottom, and row 17 being the top of your embroidered motif. You read the scheme as follows:

Every square represents a crocheted stitch in your shawl. The white squares will not be embroidered. The coloured squares represent the cross stitches you’re going to make. in every square there’s a letter, corresponding to the colour you use for the embroidery.

For details regarding how you embroider read the Tips & Tricks document, or watch the video tutorial Esther made for week 2.

Separator

The separator is crocheted in rows 18-24 (rows 227-233). Take colour A and use a 4.0 mm crochet hook, if you tend to chain loosely. If it pulls too much or if your shawl becomes concave at the ends, switch to a larger hooksize for the separator.

Separator row 1 Keep your yarn at the wrong side of your shawl. Stick your hook top-down in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 22. Pull up a loop, stick your hook in between the 4th and 5th st from row 21, pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook (ss made). Pull up loop between the 5th and 6th st from row 20, make ss, pull up loop between the 6th and 7th st from row 19, make ss. Pull up loop between the 7th and 8th st from row 18, make ss. First diagonal line made.

Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 19, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 20, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 21, make ss. Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 22, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 23, make ss.

Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 20, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.

Separator row 2 Pull up a loop in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 19, pull up a loop in between the 4th and 5th st from row 20, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 5th and 6th st from row 21, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!), pull up a loop in between the 6th and 7th st from row 22, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 7th and 8th st from row 23, make ss.

Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 22, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 21, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 20, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!). Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 19, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 18, make ss.

Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 22, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.

Download here week 9 of the CAL 2017 - UK.pdf

Download here week 9 of the CAL 2017 - US.pdf

Download here week 9 of the CAL 2017 - Swedish.pdf

Download here week 9 of the CAL 2017 - Spanish.pdf

Download here week 9 of the CAL 2017 - German.pdf

Download here week 9 of the CAL 2017 - Norwegian.pdf

Download here week 9 of the CAL 2017 - Hebrew.pdf

Download here week 9 of the CAL 2017 - Icelandic.pdf

Download here week 9 of the CAL 2017 - Italian.pdf

Download here week 9 of the CAL 2017 - French.pdf

Download here week 9 of the CAL 2017 - Finnish.pdf

Download here week 9 of the CAL 2017 - Portuguese.pdf

Laundry Symbols:
Laundry_full_image_2

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit the Kirsten's website for more information!

Week 10

Stitches

  • ch chain
  • dc double crochet
  • ss slip stitch
  • st stitch

Tips & tricks

  • If you find it hard to keep track of the rows (for example, which rows belong to the separator) take a contrast yarn and weave that horizontally through your rows on the top and bottom. When you finish, take your contrast yarn out.
  • This embroidery pattern is most easily created if start at one side of the pattern and finish each motif as you go.
  • The row numbers in purple indicate the row count when you count the rows continuously throughout the weeks.

Yarns

See the colour table for used yarns.

Hooksize: 4.5mm (US Size 7) (optionally 4.0mm (US size G/6)).
Gauge: 19 dc and 19 rows = 10cm (4in).

Pattern

Release stitchmarker from previous week. ch1, turn.
Rows 1-23 59dc across, ch1, turn.
Row 24 59dc across, Place stitchmarker in last stitch.

Embroidery

Work your embroidery on rows 1-17 (rows 234-250) in cross stitch according to the embroidery scheme, with row 1 being the bottom, and row 17 being the top of your embroidered motif. You read the scheme as follows:

Every square represents a crocheted stitch in your shawl. The white squares will not be embroidered. The coloured squares represent the cross stitches you’re going to make. in every square there’s a letter, corresponding to the colour you use for the embroidery.

For details regarding how you embroider read the Tips & Tricks document, or watch the video tutorial Esther made for week 2.

Separator

The separator is crocheted in rows 18-24 (rows 251-257). Take colour A and use a 4.0 mm crochet hook, if you tend to chain loosely. If it pulls too much or if your shawl becomes concave at the ends, switch to a larger hooksize for the separator.

Separator row 1 Keep your yarn at the wrong side of your shawl. Stick your hook top-down in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 22. Pull up a loop, stick your hook in between the 4th and 5th st from row 21, pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook (ss made). Pull up loop between the 5th and 6th st from row 20, make ss, pull up loop between the 6th and 7th st from row 19, make ss. Pull up loop between the 7th and 8th st from row 18, make ss. First diagonal line made.

Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 19, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 20, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 21, make ss. Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 22, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 23, make ss.

Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 20, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.

Separator row 2 Pull up a loop in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 19, pull up a loop in between the 4th and 5th st from row 20, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 5th and 6th st from row 21, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!), pull up a loop in between the 6th and 7th st from row 22, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 7th and 8th st from row 23, make ss.

Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 22, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 21, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 20, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!). Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 19, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 18, make ss.

Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 22, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit the Kirsten's website for more information!

Week 11

Stitches

  • ch chain
  • dc double crochet
  • ss slip stitch
  • st stitch

Tips & tricks

  • If you find it hard to keep track of the rows (for example, which rows belong to the separator) take a contrast yarn and weave that horizontally through your rows on the top and bottom. When you finish, take your contrast yarn out.
  • This embroidery pattern is most easily created if start at one side of the pattern and finish each motif as you go.
  • The row numbers in purple indicate the row count when you count the rows continuously throughout the weeks.

Yarns

See the colour table for used yarns.

Hooksize: 4.5mm (US Size 7) (optionally 4.0mm (US size G/6)).
Gauge: 19 dc and 19 rows = 10cm (4in).

Pattern

Release stitchmarker from previous week. ch1, turn.
Rows 1-23 59dc across, ch1, turn.
Row 24 59dc across, Place stitchmarker in last stitch.

Embroidery

Work your embroidery on rows 1-17 (rows 258-274) in cross stitch according to the embroidery scheme, with row 1 being the bottom, and row 17 being the top of your embroidered motif. You read the scheme as follows:

Every square represents a crocheted stitch in your shawl. The white squares will not be embroidered. The coloured squares represent the cross stitches you’re going to make. in every square there’s a letter, corresponding to the colour you use for the embroidery.

For details regarding how you embroider read the Tips & Tricks document, or watch the video tutorial Esther made for week 2.

Separator

The separator is crocheted in rows 18-24 (rows 275-281). Take colour A and use a 4.0 mm crochet hook, if you tend to chain loosely. If it pulls too much or if your shawl becomes concave at the ends, switch to a larger hooksize for the separator.

Separator row 1 Keep your yarn at the wrong side of your shawl. Stick your hook top-down in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 22. Pull up a loop, stick your hook in between the 4th and 5th st from row 21, pull up a loop, pull through loop on hook (ss made). Pull up loop between the 5th and 6th st from row 20, make ss, pull up loop between the 6th and 7th st from row 19, make ss. Pull up loop between the 7th and 8th st from row 18, make ss. First diagonal line made.

Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 19, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 20, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 21, make ss. Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 22, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 23, make ss.

Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 20, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.

Separator row 2 Pull up a loop in between the 3rd and 4th st from row 19, pull up a loop in between the 4th and 5th st from row 20, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 5th and 6th st from row 21, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!), pull up a loop in between the 6th and 7th st from row 22, make ss, pull up a loop in between the 7th and 8th st from row 23, make ss.

Pull up loop between the 8th and 9th st from row 22, make ss. Pull up loop between the 9th and 10th st from row 21, make ss. pull up loop between 10th and 11th st from row 20, make ss (so over the ss from your other row!). Pull up loop between 11th and 12th st from row 19, make ss, pull up loop between the 12th and 13th st from row 18, make ss.

Continue making diagonal ss lines. Every repeat consists of 10 slip stitches, 5 diagonally up and 5 down. End with making a ss over the 4th-to-last dc from row 22, meaning that your last diagonal line consists of 4 instead of 5 ss. Cut yarn.

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit the Kirsten's website for more information!

Week 12

Stitches (UK)

  • bst bobble stitch (* yarn over, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops on hook; repeat from * another 3 times (5 loops on hook), yarn over, pull loop through all loops on hook).
  • ch chain
  • dc double crochet
  • RS right side
  • WS wrong side

Tips & Tricks

  • Colour changing is done by making the last loop of the stitch that’s previous to the colour change in the new colour.
  • In between the bobble stitches, crochet over the Catona thread with the Stone washed in order to keep the amount of loose ends to a minimum.
  • In order to make the bobbles really pop, make sure to pull the next dc extra tight.
  • The bobbles are worked on the opposite side of the shawl as compared to week 1. Make sure to pop them to the front of your shawl before finishing!

Yarns

See the colour table for used colours.

Hooksize: 4.5mm (US size 7)
Gauge: 19 dc and 19 rows = 10 cm (4in).

Pattern

Take the stitchmarker out of the previous row, ch1, turn.
Row 1 (RS) 59dc, ch1, turn.
Row 2 (WS) 6dc, *change to J, bst, change to SW, 1dc, change to J, bst, change to SW, 7dc; repeat from * another 4 times, 3dc, ch1, turn. Cut strand of J.
Row 3 Repeat row 1.
Row 4 10dc, *change to I, bst, change to SW, 1dc, change to I, bst, change to SW, 7dc; repeat from * another 3 times, change to I, bst, change to SW, 1dc, change to I, bst, change to SW, 6dc, ch1, turn. Cut strand of I.
Row 5 Repeat row 1.
Row 6 Repeat row 2 with H.
Row 7 Repeat row 1.
Row 8 Repeat row 4 with G.
Row 9 Repeat row 1.
Row 10 Repeat row 2 with F.
Row 11 Repeat row 1.
Row 12 Repeat row 4 with E.
Row 13 Repeat row 1.
Row 14 Repeat row 2 with D.
Row 15 Repeat row 1.
Row 16 Repeat row 4 with C.
Row 17 Repeat row 1.
Row 18 Repeat row 2 with B.
Row 19 Repeat row 1.
Row 20 Repeat row 4 with A.
Rows 21-23 Repeat row 1. Cut SW, fasten off and weave in all ends.

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit the Kirsten's website for more information!

Week 13

Stitches (UK)

  • ch chain
  • dc double crochet
  • drop st dropped stitch (insert hook in base of st 2 rows below, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through all loops on hook.)
  • p picot ((ss, ch2, ss) in same st.)
  • RS right side
  • ss slip stitch
  • st stitch
  • WS wrong side

Tips & tricks

  • The edges might be a bit wider compared to the body of the shawl, because it’s more stretchy. This will be corrected with blocking.
  • Don’t work your drop stitches too loose or too tight (i.e. it shouldn’t be snaggy, neither pull on your stitches).

Yarns

See colour table for used colours.

Hooksize: 4.5mm (US Size 7)
Gauge: 19 dc and 19 rows = 10cm (4in).

Pattern

Round 1 (RS) Take SW and start in the bottom right corner of your shawl in the starting chain. Join with ss, 1ch, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in corner st, 1dc in each of next 303 rows, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next corner, 57dc, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next corner, 1dc in each of next 303 rows, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in next corner, 57 dc, join with ss in first st. (305 dc on long sides, 59 dc on short sides)
Round 2 Ch1, 1dc in same st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in corner space, 305dc, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in corner space, 59dc, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in corner space, 305dc, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in corner space, 58dc, ss to first dc. (307 dc on long sides, 61 dc on short sides)
Round 3 Ch1, 1dc in same st, 1dc in next st, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in corner space, 307dc, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in corner space, 61dc, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in corner space, 307dc, (1dc, ch2, 1dc) in corner space, 59dc, ss to first dc. Fasten off. (309 dc on long sides, 63 dc on short sides)

You’re now going to work on the short side of the shawl only. Work in rows, your coloured rows are on the RS, your SW rows on the WS of your shawl, with the exception of the last row.

Row 4 (RS) Attach SW in the right corner space of the shawl with a ss, 1ch, 1dc in corner space, 63dc, 1dc in corner space, ch1, turn.
Row 5 (WS) 65dc, cut yarn.
Row 6 Join H with a ss, 1ch, 1dc in same st, 1dc in each of next 3 st, *drop st, 3dc; repeat from * another 14 times, 1dc, cut yarn.
Row 7 Join SW with a ss, 1ch, repeat row 5.
Row 8 Join I with a ss, 1ch, 1dc in same st, 1dc in each of next 5 st, *drop st, 3dc; repeat from * another 13 times, 3dc, cut yarn.
Row 9 Join SW with a ss, 1ch, repeat row 5.
Row 10 With J repeat row 6.
Row 11 Join SW with a ss, 1ch, 65dc, ch1, turn.
Row 12 *p, ss; repeat from * another 31 times, p, cut yarn, fasten off.
Repeat rows 4-12 for the other short side as well. Weave in all ends.

If you plan on lining your shawl, be sure to block it to size first (instructions on blocking can be found in the Tips & Tricks document). After blocking, leave the shawl to rest for one or two days so it has plenty of time to resize to its final measurements. In the meantime, pre-wash your fabric (to accommodate for shrinkage) and iron it flat.

NEW - Download the all-in-one PDF!

The pattern for this CAL is now available as an all-in-one PDF! Visit the Kirsten's website for more information!

Week 14

This week you will line your shawl, by hand! The described method is very straightforward and creates a (near-)invisible hem stitch. There are multiple ways to line a shawl, and if you prefer another method to the one described, surely go ahead!

Materials

  • 100% cotton fabric
  • Optional: tacking thread
  • Tailor chalk or washable fabric marker
  • Fabric scissors
  • Sewing thread (matching your SW colour)
  • Sewing needle

Step 1: Washing

If you use 100% cotton fabric, some shrinkage will likely occur when you wash your shawl. For this reason it’s recommended to pre-wash the fabric on a regular washing cycle. Keep in mind that the shrinkage is on average 5% so account for this in the size of your fabric. After washing, iron the fabric.

Step 2: Tacking thread

Pre-lining the shawl with tacking thread is optional, but I highly recommend doing this. Tacking thread is easily breakable thread which acts as a placeholder to keep your fabric in place when you sew in the lining. It also makes it easier to put your project aside without shifting your fabric.

Please remember to keep an eye on the front of your shawl when you work with tacking thread. If your shawl looks bundled up in one place or isn’t laying flat when you turn your work, go back and re-do that part as it will show in your final lining too!

To pre-line your shawl, follow these steps:

  • Lay your shawl flat and place your fabric on top of the shawl. Trim fabric to size, there should be approximately 2cm (0.8in) of excess fabric on all sides.
  • Start in the top right corner. Fold a 1.5cm (0.5in) seam in between the shawl and your fabric. You will be stitching your lining in the last row’s stitches on all sides.
  • Use a running stitch and stitch approx. 0.5-1cm (0.2-0.4in) from the edge of the fabric. Make sure you stitch through the seam as well to keep it in place. Smooth out your fabric and shawl with your hands as you go, making sure not to pull to hard on the fabric or shawl to prevent creasing or overstretching.
  • When you reach the top left corner, gently smooth out your fabric and trim any excess fabric to size. Fold the side seam inwards. Continue stitching down the short side, adjusting the seam if necessary to accommodate for your shawl size.
  • Continue around the shawl. When you’ve stitched around, simply break off your tacking thread.

Step 3: Lining

Now take a piece of sewing thread and thread your needle, tie a knot at the end. You will be stitching the very edge of the fabric to the last row of stitches on all sides. Pick up a small piece (2-3mm/0.1in) of the bottom loop of your stitch with your needle, pull through. Next, insert your needle in the fabric below, and pick up a small piece (2-3mm/0.1in), pull thread through. Don’t pull too tight. Pick up the next small piece of loop and a bit of the loop from the next stitch. Continue like this all around the shawl, and leave a 10cm (4in) tail to weave in. By using this method, you barely see the sewing thread in the back, or in the front! For clarification, see the diagram below.

Week 14 - Step 3

Step 4: Vertical lines

Now your fabric is secured on all sides, but you need to secure it in the center of your shawl too. In order to do so, you will be making vertical lines through the fabric and the back of your shawl with a straightforward backstitch.

Measure out the middle of your shawl, and mark the vertical line (from long side to the other long side of your shawl) with tailor chalk or a fabric marker. Next, take a piece of sewing thread, tie a knot at the end and make short backstitches along the line.

Backstitches are made by picking up a small piece of fabric (and shawl!) from point A to B (see below), and pulling your thread through which will run at the backside of your fabric. Next, insert your needle in point C (in the stitch you just made) and pick up again a small piece of fabric. Repeat this until you’ve finished stitching along the line. Divide each half of the shawl in halves again and repeat the process. Next, divide each half in two again and repeat this again. Pull out the tacking thread and sew in all loose ends. You’re done!

Week 14 - Step 4

Caring for your shawl

It’s important to take good care of your shawl. With the proper maintenance it will last you a long time. This goes for all handmade items, of course!

Colour Catcher - Always use a colour catcher when you wash your shawl for the first time. The yarns used in this CAL are very colourfast but there is always a small chance of colour bleed. A colour catcher will ‘catch’ any excess dye and trap it, preventing it from running.

Washing - Wash the shawl preferably by hand. Although cotton and acrylic don’t felt, the shawl and its embroidery will look best if the yarn is not overly agitated when washed. If you can’t wash it by hand, choose a gentle cycle (wool wash, for example).

Drying - Always let your handmade item dry flat, and in shape. Try to avoid the dryer as much as possible, as your yarn might get agitated and snag.

Pilling - It is possible that a little bit of pilling will occur when you’re wearing your Hygge shawl. Pilling is the result of friction and heat, and virtually every fiber will pill a little bit when used (check the armpits and sleeves of your favourite cardigan, you’ll probably find them there too!). Pills are easily removed by using a bobble buster every once in a while. Regular washing will remove little pills too.

 

Download here week 14 of the CAL 2017 - UK.pdf

Download here week 14 of the CAL 2017 - US.pdf

Download here week 14 of the CAL 2017 - Swedish.pdf

Download here week 14 of the CAL 2017 - Spanish.pdf

Download here week 14 of the CAL 2017 - German.pdf

Download here week 14 of the CAL 2017 - Norwegian.pdf

Download here week 14 of the CAL 2017 - Hebrew.pdf

Download here week 14 of the CAL 2017 - Icelandic.pdf

Download here week 14 of the CAL 2017 - Italian.pdf

Download here week 14 of the CAL 2017 - French.pdf

Login

Forgot your password?

Don't have an account yet?
Create account