CAL / 2016 - Last Dance on the Beach

Information

Tips & Tricks

Week 1
Week 2
Week 3
Week 4
Week 5
Week 6
Week 7
Week 8
Week 9
Week 10
Week 11
Week 12
Week 13: Joining
Week 14: The Border

Bonus Pattern

Scheepjes CAL 2016 - Last Dance on the Beach

As many of you know, this CAL was designed by the late Marinke Slump (aka : Wink) from www.acreativebeing.com and was the final design she was working on at the time of her passing. In accordance with the wishes of Marinke’s family, 12 of her online friends and bloggers have completed her unfinished design to present this beautiful and sensitive CAL in Marinke’s memory and as a tribute to her work.

The theme of this CAL is: Last Dance on the Beach.
We are sure Marinke would approve of one final dance together on the beach with all her creative friends.

Two types of kits will be available for this CAL, both of which Marinke selected herself:

  • Basic kit : made up of our Colour Crafter yarns. This kit will contain yarn only and a special tribute label. The approx. size of this completed blanket will be 115 cm by 150 cm.
  • Luxury kit : for those who wish to make an extra special memory of Marinke. This kit will contain our Merino Soft yarns, some extra goodies and a special tribute label. The approx. size of this completed blanket will be 130 cm by 160 cm.

Each kit will be available in 3 colour ways:

  • Dance in the Sea
  • Dance in the Rain
  • Dance under the Stars

Included in the purchase of these kits will be a small donation to a Mental Health charity in Marinke’s memory.

Dance in the Sea – BASIC
Colour Crafter

  • 1x 1316 Almelo
  • 2x 1722 Alphen
  • 1x 1302 Dokkum
  • 2x 1019 Texel
  • 1x 1422 Eelde
  • 3x 1710 Ermelo
  • 1x 1003 Middelburg
  • 1x 1034 Urk
  • 1x 1117 Delft
  • 1x 1116 Emmen

Dance in the Rain – BASIC
Colour Crafter

  • 1x 1710 Ermelo
  • 2x 1724 Helmond
  • 1x 1064 Veenendaal
  • 2x 1063 Rotterdam
  • 1x 1218 Zandvoort
  • 3x 1203 Heerenveen
  • 1x 1034 Urk
  • 1x 1001 Weert
  • 1x 1302 Dokkum
  • 1x 1722 Alphen

Dance under the Stars – BASIC
Colour Crafter

  • 1x 1241 Den Bosch
  • 2x 1035 Kampen
  • 1x 1711 Leeuwarden
  • 2x 1117 Delft
  • 1x 1277 Amstelveen
  • 3x 1004 Veendam
  • 1x 1709 Burum
  • 1x 1067 Hoorn
  • 1x 1246 Maastricht
  • 1x 1123 Roermond

Dance in the Sea – LUXURY
Merino Soft

  • 3x 625 Kandinsky
  • 5x 630 Lautrec
  • 3x 617 Cezanne
  • 5x 614 Magritte
  • 2x 628 Botticelli
  • 9x 606 Da Vinci
  • 3x 615 Soutine
  • 3x 610 Turner
  • 3x 616 Klimt
  • 3x 626 Kahlo

Dance in the Rain – LUXURY
Merino Soft

  • 3x 606 Da Vinci
  • 5x 613 Giotto
  • 3x 607 Braque
  • 5x 604 Lowry
  • 2x 602 Raphael
  • 9x 603 Michelangelo
  • 3x 610 Turner
  • 3x 600 Malevich
  • 3x 612 Vermeer
  • 3x 605 Hogarth

Dance under the Stars – LUXURY
Merino Soft

  • 3x 635 Matisse
  • 5x 622 Klee
  • 3x 619 Gaugin
  • 5x 638 Hockney
  • 2x 639 Monet
  • 9x 609 Rembrandt
  • 3x 641 Van Gogh
  • 3x 637 Seurat
  • 3x 621 Picasso
  • 3x 623 Rothko

Download here the complete version of the CAL 2016 - UK.pdf

Download here the complete version of the CAL 2016 - US.pdf

Download here the complete version of the CAL 2016 - Swedish.pdf

For more information visit our CAL Facebook groups:

Netherlands (Dutch speaking group): https://www.facebook.com/groups/scheepjescal/
International (English speaking group): https://www.facebook.com/groups/ScheepjesCAL.International/

Materials

  • Scheepjes Merino Soft (50% Superwash Extra Fine Merino Wool, 25% Microfibre and 25% Acrylic, 50g/105m) OF Scheepjes Colour Crafter (100% Premium Acrylic, 100g/300m)
  • All hook sizes from 4 mm – 6 mm for Merino Soft
  • All hook sizes from 3.5 mm – 5.5 mm for Colour Crafter
  • Tapestry needle

Notes

There will be a total of 14 weeks in the CAL. The first 12 weeks will include a pattern for one of twelve different squares, and then instructions will be given for joining them together and making the border in the final two weeks. You will need to make four squares of each pattern in the same colour for the first 12 weeks, making a total of 48 squares. For each square there will be the option to work in either Colour Crafter or Merino Soft yarn.

Samenstelling

Rond elk vierkant haak je een rand met een vast bepaald aantal vasten. Op het einde van de CAL krijg je de instructies om alle vierkanten mooi met elkaar te verbinden en zo je deken samen te stellen. Vervolgens krijg je ook de instructies om de rand rondom de deken te haken.

Construction

Each square will have a double crochet border around it of the same number of stitches. At the end of the CAL, there will be instuctions for joining the squares together and adding a border to make a blanket.

Contrast Thread

On completion of each square, attach a small piece of contrast thread (a piece of scrap yarn in a contrasting colour, NOT from your kit yarn) through the middle stitch of each corner.

Blocking

It is important to use wet blocking (not spray blocking) for this project, especially when combining light and dark colours.

Measurements

A completed blanket made in Merino Soft will measure approximately 130 cm by 160 cm if each square is 19 cm square. A completed blanket made in Colour Crafter will measure approximately 115 cm by 150 cm if each square is 18 cm square.

Tension

A blocked and finished square in Merino Soft yarn measures 19 cm square using a 4.5 mm hook or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

A blocked and finished square in Colour Crafter yarn measures 18 cm square using a 4 mm hook or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge is very important in this project as different textured stitches can make the squares contact a little. In order to determine your hook size, please work a gauge swatch as per the pattern below. You are aiming for each square to be the size stated above, but it is important that all your squares throughout the CAL are an even size, than the exact size stated above. Blocking will even out minor differences in size, but alter your hook size if the size of the squares varies considerably. Each square is worked with a border of the same number of dc stitches around the edge. Please keep in mind when you begin each square that it will be slightly larger when the border is added.

Important information

  • Make sure not to work the double crochet stitch borders too tight. A nice stretchy border will make joining the squares much easier to join.
  • It is important to work the correct number of stitches for the edging round of each square (26dc on each straight side and 3 dc in each corner.

Begin with the following hook sizes: Merino Soft 4.5 mm, Colour Crafter 4 mm. However, you will find (because of the range of stitches) that on many squares you will have to go up or down up to 3 sizes to achieve the correct square dimensions.

Colour use fort the Gauge Swatch

Dancing in the Sea: Merino Soft Turner (610) or Colour Crafter Urk (1304)
Dancing in the Rain: Merino Soft Malevich (600) or Colour Crafter Weert (1001)
Dancing under the Stars: Merino Soft Seurat (637) or Colour Crafter Hoorn (1067)

Gauge Swatche Pattern (UK terms)

Ch30.
Row 1 (RS): Htr in third ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [28 htr]
Rows 2-22: Ch2 (does not count as st), htr in each st to end, turn.

Edging
Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st), work 26 dc evenly along each side of the square, with 3dc in each corner st, ss to first dc. Fasten off and weave in ends.

Download here the Tips & Tricks of the CAL 2016 Last Dance on the Beach.pdf

https://www.facebook.com/groups/ScheepjesCAL.International/

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Yarn Colour for this Square
  • Dancing in the Sea: Merino Soft Kandinsky (625) or Colour Crafter Almelo (1316)
  • Dancing in the Rain: Merino Soft Da Vinci (606) or Colour Crafter Ermelo (1710)
  • Dancing under the Stars: Merino Soft Matisse (635) or Colour Crafter Den Bosch (1241)
Abbreviations (UK terms used throughout)
ch chain
dc double crochet
ss slip stitch
tr treble crochet
Popcorn stitch (pc) Work 5tr in de same st, drop the loop from the hook, insert the hook from front to back in de top of the first tr worked, put the hook back in the dropped loop and pull through the first tr, ch1 to close. This will have the popcorn appear on the side of the work facing you. For it to appear on the reverse side, which you will need when working WS rows, insert the hook in the first tr from back to front instead. * Note: 2 pc are worked in 1 stitch in this motif.
RS Right side
WS Wrong side

Pattern: Make 4 squares
Ch30.
Row 1 (RS): Tr in fourth ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [28 sts]
Row 2: Ch3 (counts as tr throughout), tr in each st tot end, turn.
Row 3-4: As row 2.
Row 5: Ch3, tr in next 3 sts, skit next st, 2pc in next st, skip next st, tr in next 6 sts, skip next st, 2pc in next st, tr in next 5 sts skip next st, 2pc in next st, skip next st, tr in each st to end, turn.
Row 6: Ch3, *tr in each tr to next pc, 2pc between pc sts of the last row; rep from * twice more, tr in each tr to end, turn.
Row 7-11: Repeat Row 6.
Row 12-15: Repeat Row 2, do not fasten off.
Edging
Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st), work 26 dc evenly along each side of the square, with 3dc in each corner, ss to first dc. Fasten off, weave in ends, add contrast thread and block.
For more information visit our CAL Facebook group Scheepjes CAL - International  
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Yarn Colour for this Square
  • Dancing in the Sea: Merino Soft Lautrec (630) or Colour Crafter Alphen (1722)
  • Dancing in the Rain: Merino Soft Giotto (613) or Colour Crafter Helmond (1724)
  • Dancing under the Stars: Merino Soft Klee (622) or Colour Crafter Kampen (1035)
Abbreviations (UK terms used throughout)
ch chain
dc double crochet
htr half treble crochet
ss slip stitch
sst Star Stitch (see pattern instructions for explanation)
RS Right side
WS Wrong side

Pattern: Make 4 squares
Ch33.
Row 1 (RS): Starting in 2nd ch from hook, draw up loop in each of next 5 ch, yrh, draw through all loops on hook, ch1 (first sst made), *draw up loop through eyelet at centre of previous star, draw up loop around last spoke of previous star, draw up loop in same ch as base of last spoke of previous star, draw up loop in each of next 2 ch, yrh, draw through all loops on hook, ch1 (next sst made); repeat from * another 12 times, htr in last ch, turn. [14 sst, 1 htr]
Row 2 (WS): Ch2 (counts as htr here and throughout pattern), *2htr in eyelet of star; repeat from * another 13 times, htr in last st, turn. [30 htr]
Row 3 (RS): Ch3, starting in 2nd ch from hook, draw up loop in each of next 2 ch, draw up loop in each of first 3 htr, yrh, draw trhough all loops on hook, ch1 (first sst made), *draw up loop through eyelet of previous star, draw up loop around last spoke of previous star, draw up loop in same st as base of last spoke of previous star, draw up loop in each of next 2 sts, yrh, draw through all loops on hook, ch1 (next sst made); repeat from * another 12 times, htr in last ch, turn. [14 sst, 1 htr]
Row 4 (WS): As row 2.
Row 5-16: Repeat (rows 3 and 4) 6 more times, do not fasten off.
Edging
Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st), work 26 dc evenly along each side of the square, with 3dc in each corner, ss to first dc. Fasten off, weave in ends, add contrast thread and block.
For more information visit our CAL Facebook group Scheepjes CAL - International  
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Yarn Colour for this Square
  • Dancing in the Sea: Merino Soft Cezane (617) or Colour Crafter Dokkum (1302)
  • Dancing in the Rain: Merino Soft Braque (607) or Colour Crafter Veenendal (1064)
  • Dancing under the Stars: Merino Soft Gauguin (619) or Colour Crafter Leeuwarden (1711)
Abbreviations (UK terms used throughout)
ch chain
dc double crochet
sdc special double crochet: make a regular dc, but insert the hook between the two stitches of the previous row (under ALL loops)
htr half treble crochet
FPtr Front Post treble. Yrh, starting from the front, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of st in row below, complete as a treble st.
FPdtr Work as FPtr above, completing as for a double treble st.
ss slip stitch
5-tr cl (5-tr cluster) (Yrh, insert hook in space/st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) 5 times, inserting the hook in de same space/st each time, yrh and draw through all loops on hook.
RS Right side
WS Wrong side
Note
Always keep the stitch behind the front post stitch.

Pattern: Make 4 squares
The turning ch at the beginning of the row (either ch-1, or ch-2) does not count as a st, so always work the first st of the row in the stitch at the base of the turining ch.
Ch30.
Row 1 (WS): Beginning in third ch from hook (skipped ch do not count as st), htr in each ch to end, turn. [28 sts]
Row 2 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), sdc in first 6 sts, *FPtr around each of next 2 sts, sdc in next st, FPtr around each of next 2 sts, sdc in next 5 sts; rep from * once more, sdc in next 2 st to end, turn.
Row 3: Ch2 (does not count as st throughout), htr in each st to end, turn.
Row 4: Ch1, sdc in first 4 sts, *FPdtr around each of next 2 PFtr from 2 rows below, sdc in next 5 sts, FPdtr around each of next 2 FPtr from 2 rows below, sdc in next st; rep from once more *, sdc in next 4 st to end, turn.
Row 5: Ch2, *htr in each of next 9 sts, 5-tr cl in next st; rep from * once more, htr in next 8 st to end, turn.
Row 6: Ch1, sdc in first 4 sts, *FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr from 2 rows below, sdc in next 5 sts, FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr from 2 rows below, sdc in next st; rep from * once more, sdc in next 4 st to end, turn.
Row7: As row 3.
Row 8: Ch1, sdc in first 6 sts, *FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr from 2 rows below, sdc in next st, FPdtr around each of next 2 FPdtr from 2 rows below, sdc in next 5 sts; rep from * once more, sdc in next 2 st to end, turn.
Row 9: Ch2, htr in each of next 14 sts, 5-tr cl in next st, htr in next 13 st to end, turn.
Row 10: As row 8.
Row 11-18: Repeat rows 3-10.
Row 19-24: Repeat rows 3-8.
Row 25: Repeat row 3.
Row 26 (RS): Repeat row 8. Do not turn or fasten off.
Edging
Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st), work 26 dc evenly along each side of the square, with 3dc in each corner, ss to first dc. Fasten off, weave in ends, add contrast thread and block.
For more information visit our CAL Facebook group Scheepjes CAL - International  
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Yarn Colour for this Square
  • Dancing in the Sea: Merino Soft Magritte (614) or Colour Crafter Texel (1019)
  • Dancing in the Rain: Merino Soft Lowry (604) or Colour Crafter Rotterdam (1063)
  • Dancing under the Stars: Merino Soft Hockney (638) or Colour Crafter Delft (1117)
Note: In the new Colour Crafter basic Rain kits the colour Rotterdam (1063) has been replaced by Pollare (2018).
Abbreviations (UK terms used throughout)
ch chain
dc double crochet
htr half treble crochet
tr treble crochet
dtr double treble crochet
ss slip stitch
ttr triple treble crochet
RS Right side
WS Wrong side

Pattern: Make 4 squares
Ch30.
Row 1 (RS): htr in third ch from the hook and in each ch to end, turn. [28 htr]
Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as st), htr in each st to end, turn. [28 htr]
Row 3 (row of waves): Working in the front loops only for the whole row: ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first 5 sts, htr in next st, tr in next st, dtr in next st, ttr in each of next 2 sts, ch5, ss in loop at base of last ttr, *dc in next 3 sts, htr in next st, tr in next st, dtr in next st, ttr in each of next 2 sts, ch5, ss in loop at base of last ttr; rep from *, dc in last 2 sts, turn. [3 ‘waves’]
Row 4: Working in the remaining back loops of row 2 for the whole row: ch2 (does not count as st), htr in each st to end, turn. [28 htr]
Row 5-6: As row 2.
Row 7 (row of waves): Working in the front loops only for the whole row: ch1 (does not count as st), dc in next st, *htr in next st, tr in next st, dtr in next st, ttr in each of next 2 sts, ch5, ss in loop at base of last ttr, dc in next st, insert hook between ttr and ch-5 of wave below and dc in next st, dc in next st; rep from * twice more, dc in last 3 sts, turn. [3 ‘waves’]
Row 8-10: Repeat rows 4-6.
Row 11: Working in the front loops only for the whole row: ch1 (does not count as st), dc in first 3 sts, insert hook between ttr and ch-5 of weave below and dc in next st, dc in next st, htr in next st, tr in next st, dtr in next st, ttr in each of next 2 sts, ch5, ss in loop at base of last ttr, *dc in next st, insert hook between ttr and ch-5 of wave below and dc in next st, dc in next st, htr in next st, tr in next st, dtr in next st, ttr in each of next 2 sts, ch5, ss in loop at base of last ttr; rep from *, dc in last 2 sts, turn. [3 ‘waves’]
Row 12-14: Repeat rows 4-6.
Row 15-22: Repeat rows 7 - 14.
Row 23-26: Repeat rows 7-10.
Row 27: Ch2, htr in first 3st, *insert hook between ttr and ch-5 of weave below and htr in next s, htr in next 7sts; repeat from * another 2 times, 1htr in last st, do not turn.
Edging
Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st), work 26 dc evenly along each side of the square, with 3dc in each corner, ss to first dc. Fasten off, weave in ends, add contrast thread and block.
For more information visit our CAL Facebook group Scheepjes CAL - International  
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Yarn Colour for this Square
  • Dancing in the Sea: Merino Soft Botticelli (628) or Colour Crafter Eelde (1422)
  • Dancing in the Rain: Merino Soft Raphael (602) or Colour Crafter Zandvoort (1218)
  • Dancing under the Stars: Merino Soft Monet (639) or Colour Crafter Amstelveen (1277)
Abbreviations (UK terms used throughout)
ch chain
dc double crochet
htr half treble crochet
Seagull (Seagull stitch) Yrh, insert hook into base of st 1 row below the previous st, pull up a loop. Insert hook into base of st 2 rows below current st being worked, pull up a loop. Skip next st, insert hook into base of st 1 row below next st, (one row below, two stitches ahead) pull up a loop. Yrh, draw through all loops on hook.
ss slip stitch
RS Right side
WS Wrong side

Pattern: Make 4 squares
Although Seagull Stitch ‘uses’ 1 st of the stitch count of the previous row, the top of the current st remains unworked, so when you work into the next st after the Seagull, you will effectively skip the top of the stitch of the previous row and work into the next st.
Ch30.
Row 1 (RS): Htr into third ch from the hook and in each ch to end, turn. [28 htr]
Row 2: Ch2 (does not count as st troughout), htr in each st to end, turn.
Row 3: Ch2, htr in next 15 sts, Seagull in next st, htr in next 12 st to en, turn. [28 sts]
Row 4: As row 2.
Row 5: Ch2, htr in next 18 sts, Seagull in next st, htr in next 9 st to en, turn. [28 sts]
Row 6: As row 2.
Row7-23: Repeat rows 3-6 four more times, then repeat row 3 once more.
Row 24: Repeat row 4, do not fasten off, turn.
Edging
Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st), work 26 dc evenly along each side of the square, with 3dc in each corner, ss to first dc. Fasten off, weave in ends, add contrast thread and block.
For more information visit our CAL Facebook group Scheepjes CAL - International  
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Yarn Colour for this Square
  • Dancing in the Sea: Merino Soft Da Vinci (606) or Colour Crafter Ermelo (1710)
  • Dancing in the Rain: Merino Soft Michelangelo (603) or Colour Crafter Heerenveen (1203)
  • Dancing under the Stars: Merino Soft Rembrandt (609) or Colour Crafter Veendam (1004)
Abbreviations (UK terms used throughout)
ch chain
dc double crochet
tr treble crochet
sp space
ss slip stitch
RS right side
WS wrong side

Note
This pattern is worked using a ‘corner to corner’ construction in blocks of ch3 and 3 tr. Each ‘row’ is made up of a diagonal row of blocks, starting with 1 block in the bottom left corner, then 2 blocks in the next row, 3 in the next, and so on. When the two straight edges of the square are the right size, the construction changes slightly to work 1 less block on each row, back towards the top right corner. You will need to both turn and rotate the work at the beginning of each new row of blocks.

Pattern: Make 4 squares
Row 1 (RS): Ch6 (counts as 3 ch and tr), tr in fourth ch from the hook and in each of next 2 ch to end, turn. [Block 1]
Row 2 (WS): Ch6 (counts as 3 ch and tr), tr in fourth ch from the hook and in each of next 2 ch [Block 2], with the WS of Block 1 facing, and the RS of Block 2 facing, line up the post of the treble just worked along the top of the trebles from Block 1 so that the 2 blocks are touching and ss in the sp created by the ch-3 at the top of Block 1. Ch3, 3tr in same ch-3 sp, turn. [Blocks 2 and 3 complete]
Row 3 (RS): Ch6 (counts as 3 ch and tr), tr in fourth ch from the hook and in each of next 2 ch [Block 4], rotate this block so that you can ss in the ch-3 sp of Block 3 just worked, ch3, 3tr in same ch-3 sp [Block 5]. Ss in ch-3 sp at the top of the next block [Block 2], ch3, 3tr in same ch-3 sp, turn. [Blocks 4, 5 and 6 complete]
Row 4: Ch6 (counts as 3 ch and tr), tr in fourth ch from the hook and in each of next 2 ch, rotate this block so that you can ss in the ch-3 sp of Block just worked, *ch3, 3tr in same ch-3 sp. Ss in ch-3 sp at the top of the next block; repeat from * untill you have worked a ss into the ch-3 sp of the last block of the previous row, ch3, 3tr in same ch-3 sp, turn. [increase by 1 Block each row]
Row 5-11: Repeat row 4. [11 Blocks after Row 11]
To decrease blocks for the second half of the square:
Row 12: Turn after row 11, next ss in each of the last 3 tr, ss in ch-3 sp of block just worked. *Ch3, 3tr in same ch-3 sp, ss in ch-3 sp of next block; repeat from * until you have worked a ss into the ch-3 sp of the last block of the previous row, turn without working into the top of this block.
Rows13-21: Repeat row 12.
Edging(RS)1ch, 1dc in 24dc until corner, 3dc in corner stitch, work over the next 3 sides: 26dc + 3dc in the corner, end on the upper side with another 1dc in next 2sts, ss to first dc. Cut yarn, fasten off, weave in all ends, attach contrast thread and block.
For more information visit our CAL Facebook group Scheepjes CAL - International  
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Yarn Colour for this Square
  • Dancing in the Sea: Merino Soft Lautrec (630) or Colour Crafter Alphen (1722)
  • Dancing in the Rain: Merino Soft Giotto (613) or Colour Crafter Helmond (1724)
  • Dancing under the Stars: Merino Soft Klee (622) or Colour Crafter Kampen (1035)
Abbreviations (UK terms used throughout)
Bobble Yrh, insert hook into next st, *yrh and pull up loop [3 loops on hook], yrh and pull through 2 loops on hook [2 loops on hook]. Working into same st, repeat from * until there are 6 loops on hook, yrh and pull through all loops on hook, ch1 to secure.
ch chain
dc double crochet
dc2tog double crochet decrease
ss slip stitch
st(s) stitch(es)
RS right side
WS wrong side

Pattern: Make 4 squares
Ch30.
Row 1 (RS): Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [29 sts]
Row 2-7: Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 8: Ch1, 14 dc, Bobble in next st, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 9: and every alternate row Ch1 (does not count as st throughout), dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 10: Ch1, 12dc, Bobble in next st, 3dc, Bobble in next st, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 12: Ch1, 10dc, Bobble in next st, 7dc, Bobble in next st, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 14: Ch1, 8dc, Bobble in next st, 11dc, Bobble in next st, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 16: Ch1, 6dc, Bobble in next st, 15dc, Bobble in next st, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 18: Ch1, 4dc, Bobble in next st, 19dc, Bobble in next st, dc in each st to end, turn.
Row 20: Ch1, 4dc, Bobble in next st, (9dc, Bobble in next st) x 2 dc in last 4 st, turn.
Row 22: Ch1, 4dc, Bobble in next st, 8dc, Bobble in next st, 1dc Bobble in next st, 8 dc, Bobble in next st, dc in last 4 st, turn.
Row 24: Ch1, (5dc, Bobble in next st), 4 times, 5 dc, turn.
Row 26: Ch1, 7dc, Bobble in next st, 1dc, Bobble in next st, 9dc, Bobble in next st, 1 dc, Bobble in next st, 7dc, turn.
Row 27-34: Ch1, dc in each st to end, turn. Do not fasten off.
Edging
Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st), work 26 dc evenly along each side of the square, with 3dc in each corner, ss to first dc. Fasten off, weave in ends, add contrast thread and block.
For more information visit our CAL Facebook group Scheepjes CAL - International  
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Yarn Colour for this Square
  • Dancing in the Sea: Merino Soft Magrittei (614) or Colour Crafter Texel (1019)
  • Dancing in the Rain: Merino Soft Lowry (604) or Colour Crafter Rotterdam (1063)
  • Dancing under the Stars: Merino Soft Hockney (638) or Colour Crafter Delft (1117)
Abbreviations (UK terms used throughout)
ch chain
FPtr Front Post treble. Yrh, starting from the front, insert hook from front to back to front around the post of st in row below, complete as a treble st.
tr treble crochet
RS right side
WS wrong side

Pattern: Make 4 squares
* Beginning ch2 (does not count as first st throughout)
Ch30.
Row 1 (WS): tr in third ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [28 sts]
Row 2 (RS): Ch2 (FPtr around next st, tr in each of next 2 sts) repeat to last st, FPtr around last st, turn.
Row 3: Ch2 (tr in next st, FPtr around each of next 2 sts) repeat to last st, tr in last st, turn.
Row 4-18: Repeat (rows 2 and 3) 7 more times, then repeat row 2 once more, do not fasten off and do not turn.
Edging
Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st), work 26 dc evenly along each side of the square, with 3dc in each corner, ss to first dc. Fasten off, weave in ends, add contrast thread and block.
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Yarn Colour for this Square
  • Dancing in the Sea: Merino Soft Soutine (615) or Colour Crafter Middelburg (1003)
  • Dancing in the Rain: Merino Soft Turner (610) or Colour Crafter Urk (1034)
  • Dancing under the Stars: Merino Soft Van Gogh (614) or Colour Crafter Burum (1709)
Abbreviations (UK terms used throughout)
ch chain
dc double crochet
double crochet decrease (dc2tog) (insert hook in next st, yrh and draw a loop through) twice, yrh and draw through all 3 loops on hook.
tr treble crochet
ss slip stitch
RS right side
WS wrong side
Special Stitches Cable Skip the next st, tr in the next 3 sts. Inserting hook into the skipped stitch, make a tr over the 3 sts just made. When making the crossed tr over the other 3 sts, work loosely so that your work doesn’t pull.

Pattern: Make 4 squares
Ch33.
Row 1 (WS): Dc in second ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [32 sts]
Row 2 (RS): Ch3 (counts as tr), tr in next st, (Cable over next 4 sts) 7 times, tr in each o f last 2 sts, turn.
Row 3-14: Repeat row 2, do not fasten off. Do not turn.
Edging
Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st), work 26 dc evenly along each side of the square, with 3dc in each corner, ss to first dc. Fasten off, weave in ends, add contrast thread and block.
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Yarn Colour for this Square
  • Dancing in the Sea: Merino Soft Turner (610) of Colour Crafter Urk (1304)
  • Dancing in the Rain: Merino Soft Malevich (600) of Colour Crafter Weert (1001)
  • Dancing under the Stars: Merino Soft Seurat (637) of Colour Crafter Hoorn (1067)
Abbreviations (UK terms used throughout)
Bbl Insert the hook into the loop behind the back loop
ch chain
dc double crochet
ffl Insert the hook into the loop in front of the front loop
htr half treble crochet
ss slip stitch
RS right side
WS wrong side

Notes
The square is worked from side to side, giving the finished piece a faux-knit ‘rib’ effect. To get this effect, you need to work in the loop in front of the front loop of the stitch (ffl) on the WS of the work, and the loop behind the back loop (bbl) on the RS of the work.

Pattern: Make 4 squares
Ch 30.
Row 1 (RS): Htr in third ch from hook and in each ch to end, turn. [28 sts]
Row 2 (WS): Ch2 (does not count as st), htr into each ffl to end, turn.
Row 3 (RS): Ch2 (does not count as st), htr into each bbl to end, turn.
Rows 4-21: Repeat (rows 2 and 3) 9 more times, at the end of row 21: do not turn and do not fasten off.
Edging
Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st), work 26 dc evenly along each side of the square, with 3dc in each corner, ss to first dc. Fasten off, weave in ends, add contrast thread and block.
* Turn the finished square by 90 degrees so that the ‘knitted rib’ effect runs in vertical lines.
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Yarn Colour for this Square
  • Dancing in the Sea: Merino Soft Klimt (616) of Colour Crafter Delft (1117)
  • Dancing in the Rain: Merino Soft Vermeer (612) of Colour Crafter Dokkum (1302)
  • Dancing under the Stars: Merino Soft Picasso (621) of Colour Crafter Maastricht (1246)
Abbreviations (UK terms used throughout)
Bobble (B) (3-tr cl, ch1, 3-tr cl) in one stitch
ch chain
dc double crochet
ss slip stitch
tr treble crochet
2-tr cluster (2-tr cl) (Yrh, insert hook in space/st indicated, yrh and pull up loop, yrh and draw through 2 loops) twice, inserting the hook in de same space/st each time, yrh and draw through all loops on hook.
3-tr cluster (3-tr cl) As 2-tr cluster above, but work () 3 times
RS right side
WS wrong side

Notes
Testing has shown that depending on how you work your bobble stitches the motif may become too high for some people. This can be solved by omitting the last bobble repeat – rows 23 and 24.

Pattern: Make 4 squares
Ch 32.
Row 1 (RS): Dc in second ch from hook, *ch3, skip next 2 ch, B in next ch, ch3, skip next 2 ch, dc in next ch; rep from * to end, turn. [5 B]
Row 2: Ch1 (does not count as st troughout), dc in first st, 3dc in each ch-3 sp to end, dc in last st, turn. [32 dc]
Row 3: Ch2, 2-tr cl in first dc (counts as 3-tr cl), * ch3, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc, ch3, skip 2 dc, B in next dc; repeat from * to end, making sure to end with 3-tr cl instead of B, leaving last dc unworked. (4 B, 2 (3-tr cl))
Row 4: As row 2.
Row 5: Ch1, dc in first st, *ch3, skip 2 dc, B in next ch, ch3, skip 2 dc, dc in next dc; rep from * to last 7 dc, ch3, skip 2 dc, B in next dc, ch3, skip 3dc, dc in last dc, turn. [5 B]
Rows 2-5: set pattern
Rows 6-21: Repeat rows 2-5
Rows 22-24: Repeat rows 2-4, do not fasten off.
Edging
Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st), work 26 dc evenly along each side of the square, with 3dc in each corner, ss to first dc. Fasten off, weave in ends, add contrast thread and block.
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Yarn Colour for this Square
  • Dancing in the Sea: Merino Soft Kahlo (626) of Colour Crafter Emmen (1116)
  • Dancing in the Rain: Merino Soft Hogarth (605) of Colour Crafter Alphen (1722)
  • Dancing under the Stars: Merino Soft Rothkow (623) of Colour Crafter Roermond (1123)
Abbreviations (UK terms used throughout)
ch chain
dc double crochet
htr half treble crochet
ss slip stitch
st stitch
RS right side
WS wrong side

Pattern: Make 4 squares
Ch 34
Foundation Row (WS): Ss in second ch from hook, ss in next 3 st, (htr in next 5 ch, ss in next 5 ch) repeat to last 4 (not2) sts, ss in last 4 sts, turn. [33 sts]
* The entire pattern is worked in the back loops only.Row 1 (RS): Ch2 (counts as htr throughout), htr in next 3 st, (ss in next 5 htr, htr in next 5 ss) repeat to last 4 sts, htr in last 4 sts, turn.
Row 2: Ch2, htr in next 3 st, (ss in next 5 ss, htr in next 5 htr) repeat to last 4 sts, htr in last 4 sts, turn.
Row 3: Ch1, ss in first 4 htr, (htr in next 5 ss, ss in next 5 htr) repeat to last 4 sts, ss in last 4 sts, turn.
Row 4: Ch1, ss in first 4 ss, (htr in next 5 htr, ss in next 5 ss) repeat to last 4 sts, ss in last 4 sts, turn.
Row 5-28: Repeat rows (1-4) 6 more times.
Row 29: Repeat row 1 once more, do not fasten off.
Edging
Round 1 (RS): Ch1 (does not count as st), work 26 dc evenly along each side of the square, with 3dc in each corner, ss to first dc. Fasten off, weave in ends, add contrast thread and block.
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Materials
  • Dancing in the Sea: 1 x ball Merino Soft Da Vinci (606) or 1x ball Colour Crafter Ermelo (1710)
  • Dancing in the Rain: 1x ball Merino Soft Michelangelo (603) or 1x ball Colour Crafter Heerenveen (1203)
  • Dancing under the Stars: 1 x ball Merino Soft Rembrandt (609) or 1 x ball Colour Crafter Veendam (1004)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Crochet hook (*note: we suggest you use a hook size 5,5 mm for the joining but you may need to change this depending on your tension).
  • Stitch markers
Information
The joining of the squares is done in continuous rows, square by square until an entire row is finished. *Do not cut your yarn after 2 squares are joined.
First join all the vertical rows, and then join all the horizontal rows. Joining is done from right side to left side (for right handed people, left handed people will need to work from left to right). Joining this way means there are not many ends to weave in, and the blanket will have a nice solid and stable character. This joining method is also very aesthetic, thanks to the continuous joining of the squares.
Square after square, and row after row, your blanket will grow. We advise you to find a comfortable position when you start joining, and make sure you have enough space to work and spread your blanket, to avoid mistakes (and twisted motifs and rows).
The joining method is called: flat zipper (slipstitch) joining. This method ensures a perfectly flat seam.
Use a larger hook for the joining, since you will be working slipstitches and you want to obtain a stretchy joining. We recommend hook size 5 – 6 mm.
Joining
Step 1: Vertical joining
  • Take the upper 2 squares on the right (see scheme): 1 ‘W10’ square and 1 ‘W3’ motif. Place them next to each other, side by side.
  • Take a look at the dc edging round. Every stitch has 2 loops, the front loop (the one facing you) and the back loop (the one on the table or the surface you are working on). From now on these backs loops are called INNER LOOPS. The entire joining will be done using those INNER LOOPS.
  • Use a larger crochet hook, to obtain a loose gauge. This is crucial.
  • Start joining the squares in the stitch below the contrast thread, and end joining the square in the stitch with the contrast thread, this means you are joining 29 stitches for each square.
Take your yarn and crochet hook. Put a slipstitch on your hook. Next insert your hook from front to back in the inner loop of the first stitch. Then insert the hook in the inner loop (also from front to back) of the first stitch of the opposite square. Pull through all loops (your yarn is at the back of your work, this is ok!). Go to the next stitch: insert your hook (again from front to back) in the inner loop of the first square, followed by doing the same thing in the inner loop of the second square and pull the yarn trough (you pull through 3 loops). Make sure your stitches are loose, to obtain a stretchy fabric.
Work now stitch by stitch, until both first squares are joined. DO NOT CUT YARN.
Take the next 2 squares: ‘W11’ and ‘W2’. Place ‘W2’next to ‘W3’ on the left side and ‘W11’ next to ‘W10’. Place them next to each other, just like you did for the first 2 motifs.
Continue joining by slipstitching together in the inner loops, making sure your first 2 joined squares (W3 and W10) are not twisted. The first stitch is a bit tricky transitioning between the first 2 and second 2 squares. Make sure you keep your yarn at the back of your work. Continue joining in this way.
Continue like this for the entire first vertical ‘line’. Be careful to ensure your previously joined squares are NOT TWISTED.
When the last 2 squares of the first row are joined: ‘W8’ and ‘W9’, cut yarn and cast off.
You now have a long row of 16 squares that are all joined with 1 vertical line.
Step 2: Vertical joining
Use the same method to join vertical lines 2-3-4 and 5. When finished, your blanket is composed with squares that are only joined vertically. The next step will be joining of the horizontal lines.
Step 3: Horizontal joining
For the horizontal joining, use exactly the same method as used for the vertical joining. It is easier to begin with the bottom row and work your way up the blanket.
When 2 squares in a row are slipstitched together, you work ‘over the vertical line’ to go to the next squares. There are a total of 7 horizontal joining rows. At the end of each row, cut the yarn and cast off.

IMPORTANT: Do NOT weave in the ends! This will be done after the edging is worked.
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Materials
  • Dancing in the Sea: 5 x ball Merino Soft Da Vinci (606) or 2 x ball Colour Crafter Ermelo (1710)
  • Dancing in the Rain: 5 x ball Merino Soft Michelangelo (603) or 2 x ball Colour Crafter Heerenveen (1203)
  • Dancing under the Stars: 5 x ball Merino Soft Rembrandt (609) or 2 x ball Colour Crafter Veendam (1004)
  • Tapestry needle
  • Crochet hook: we advise you to use hook size 5 mm.
Border
The edging is worked around the entire blanket. Begin at the upper right corner, and you work along the upper edge first, followed by 1 long edge, next the bottom edge, and you end with the second long edge.
In the 4 corners of the blanket you work in 1 stitch: 1dc + 2ch + 1dc.
The first round is worked in the back loops only. All other rounds are worked in / under both loops.
If all your squares have the exact number of dc edging stitches, making the border will be and easy and relaxing project. In case the number of dc stitches is not entirely exact, you can just improvise a little by working 2 stitches together sometimes or by missing an extra stitch.
For the shape of the blanket it is very important to have the same amount of stitches an ch as indicated in the pattern.
In the first border round: you will notice the ‘joining lines’ between each motif. To create a fluent and aesthetic effect you will work 1 slst through the last (or first) stitch of the joining lines. So you ‘integrate’ the joining in your first edging round.

ROUND 1: RS
Work in back loops only!
Start at the upper right corner in the corner stitch, cast on with 1slst, 1ch + 1dc in this stitch, 1ch, miss 1dc, (1dc in next dc, 1ch and miss 1dc) x 13, 1dc in de last stitch of this square. You are at the joining line. Slst through the upper joining stitch. Work in next square: * (1dc in next dc, 1ch and miss 1dc) x 14, 1dc in last stitch, slst through upper joining stitch, repeat from * another 3 times. Work in last square of upper row: (1dc in next dc, 1ch and miss 1dc) x 14, in corner stitch: 1dc + 2ch + 1dc.
Next work your way down along long side: 1ch, and miss 1dc, (1dc in next dc, 1ch and miss 1dc) x 13, 1dc in de last stitch, slst through upper joining stitch, work in het next square: * (1dc in next dc, 1ch and miss 1dc) x 14, 1dc in last stitch, slst through joining stitch, repeat from * another 7 times. Work in last square of long side: (1dc in next dc, 1ch and miss 1dc) x 14, in corner stitch: 1dc + 2ch + 1dc.
Continue like this for the bottom part and the second long side. End the round in the same stitch as beginning stitch with: 1dc + 2ch and close with slst in first dc, turn (the slst made at the joining lines counts as a 1 ch-stitch).
ROUND 2: WS In 2ch-space: 1ch, 1dc + 2ch + 1dc, 1ch, in every next 1ch-space: 1dc + 1ch. At the joining lines (where 1slst in worked in the previous round) make sure to work 1dc + 1ch IN the same stitch as where the slst of previous round is made. In every 2ch-space in the corners: 1dc + 2dc + 1dc, 1ch. Work like this for entire round, close with 1slst in first dc. NEXT slst in 2ch-space, and turn.
ROUND 3 In 2ch-space: 1ch + 1dc, 1ch, in every next 1ch-space: 1dc + 1ch. In every 2ch-space in the corners: 1dc + 2dc + 1dc, 1ch. Work like this for entire round, end the round in the same stitch as beginning stitch with: 1dc + 1ch and close with slst in first dc, turn.
ROUND 4 In 2ch-space: 1ch, 1dc + 2ch + 1dc, 1ch, in every next 1ch-space: 1dc + 1ch. In every 2ch-space in de corners: 1dc + 2dc + 1dc, 1ch. Work like this for entire round, close with 1slst in first dc. NEXT slst in 2ch-space, and turn.
TOER 5-13 Repeat rounds 3 and 4, end with a round 3. Cut yarn and cast off (you can of course to decide to make the border wider). Weave in all ends. Block blanket and allow to dry naturally.
Your blanket is now complete. Weave in all ends, wash with a Colour Catcher (and Eucalan is desired) and block the entire blanket. Finally add your ‘Dance like No One is Watching’ label by wrapping around the edge of your blanket and sewing firmly on both sides through the holes.

*IMPORTANT*
This blanket contains a mix of light, dark and bold colours. As with any first wash containing a mix of colours, please use Colour Catcher. Occasionally yarn has tiny amounts of residual dye and a Colour Catcher will ensure that no bleeding between colours occurs.
For more information visit our CAL Facebook group Scheepjes CAL - International  
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Scheepjes CAL week 14
Material
  • This cusion is made with your yarn leftovers from the Scheepjes CAL 2016 ‘Last Dance On The Beach’.
  • Or Merino Soft leftovers, and crochet hook 4.5 mm
  • Or Colour Crafter leftovers, and crochet hook 4 mm
  • Tapestry needle
  • Fiberfill (washable) to fill the cushion
Abbreviations (UK Crochet Terms)
bl back loops
bbl loop behind the back loop, the third loop
ch chain
dc double crochet
dc2tog double crochet 2 together: decrease 1 stitch
htr half treble crochet
s stitch
ss slipstitch
RS right side
WS wrong side
Info
The cushion is made of 2 hearts, worked in dc stitches. Both hearts are joined to a center part worked in Wink’s favourite faux knitting stitch.
As we all crochet in a different way, the amount of left overs and colours you have left from your blanket will vary for everyone. Therefore, this ‘basic’ pattern is written, giving you plenty of possibilities to use your own imagination and colour choices.
Heart
Make 2: 1 front and 1 back part.

Row 1: RS 4ch, 2dc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, 2dc in last ch, turn. – 5dc.
Row 2: WS 1ch, 2dc in first dc, dc in next 3dc, 2dc in last dc, turn. – 7dc.
Row 3: 1ch, 2dc in first dc, dc in next 5dc, 2dc in last dc, turn. – 9dc.
Row 4: 1ch, 2dc in first dc, dc in next 7dc, 2dc in last dc, turn. – 11dc.
Row 5: 1ch, dc in every dc, turn. – 11dc.
Row 6 -9 increase: 1ch, 2dc in first dc, dc in every dc until 1s is left, 2dc in last dc, turn. – 19dc.
Row 10: 1ch, dc in every dc, turn. – 19dc.
Row 11-14: Repeat rows 6-9. – 27dc
Row 15: 1ch, dc in every dc, turn. – 27dc.
Row 16-19: Repeat rows 6-9. – 35dc
Row 20: 1ch, dc in every dc, turn. – 35dc.
Row 21-24: Repeat rows 6-9. – 43dc
Row 25: 1ch, dc in every dc, turn. – 43dc.
Row 26-29: Repeat rows 6-9. – 51dc
Row 30: 1ch, dc in every dc, turn. – 51dc.
Row 31-34: Repeat rows 6-9. – 59dc
Row 35: 1ch, dc in every dc, turn. – 59dc.
Row 36-39: Repeat rows 6-9. – 67dc
Row 40-50: 1ch, dc in every dc, turn. – 67dc.
Row 51 increase: 1ch, 2dc in first dc, dc in every dc until 1s is left, 2dc in last dc, turn. – 69dc.
Row 52-60: 1ch, dc in every dc, turn. – 69dc.
Row 61 decrease: 1ch, skip 1dc, dc in every dc until 2s left, dc2tog, turn. – 67dc.
Row 62-64: 1ch, dc in every dc, turn. – 67dc.
Row 65 First upper heart part: 1ch, dc in next 33dc, turn and leave the rest of the row unworked. – 33dc
Row 66 decrease: 1ch, skip 1dc, dc in every dc until last 2s left, dc2tog, turn. – 31dc.
Row 67: 1ch, dc in every dc, turn. – 31dc.
Row 68-75: Repeat last 2 rows 4 x. – 23dc
Row 76-80 decrease: 1ch, skip 1dc, dc in every dc until 2s left, dc2tog, turn. – 13dc.
Cut yarn and fasten off.
Finish the second upper heart part, by going back to row 65, the unworked part, skip 1s and repeat rows 65 – 80. Cut yarn and fasten off.

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